The Art of Original Composition, Perfumes created in-house.

By Saltworks Perfumery Team
Last updated 28 December 2024
3 min read

Saltworks is built on the foundation of original invention. Every fragrance in our collection is an independent creation, conceptualized in-house and brought to life through our partnership with master perfumers in Grasse.

We believe in the integrity of structure. While our palette includes the same prestige materials found in historical fine fragrance such as Bulgarian Rosa Damascena, Iris Pallida, and natural Oud our formulas are entirely our own. We do not look to other brands for templates; we look to raw materials for inspiration. The result is a scent with a unique architecture, depth, and character that belongs solely to Saltworks.

Saltworks Perfumery original fragrance creation process in Grasse

The In-House Standard

Saltworks operates as an independent fragrance house, keeping full creative control over every scent we release. Each fragrance begins with an original brief developed in our studio, then moves through an in-house formulation process focused on wearability, nuance, and depth.

  • Original creative direction: We start with character, mood, and purpose, not a competitor's reference point.
  • Formulated in-house: The formula is developed through iterative trials and wear-testing until it performs the way we intend.
  • Sourcing through Grasse: We work with specialist partners in Grasse, France to support raw material sourcing and technical refinement.
  • Technical evaluation: Formulas are assessed for safety, stability, and consistency.
  • Direct-to-consumer focus: Selling directly lets us invest more into the formula and materials.

To date, we've fulfilled over 400,000 orders.

The Grasse Connection

While the creative direction for each Saltworks fragrance is developed in-house in the UK, we work with specialist partners in Grasse, France to support raw material sourcing and technical refinement.

  • Sourcing support in Grasse: We work with specialist partners to source fine fragrance materials, including Bulgarian Rosa damascena absolute, Iris pallida oil, and natural jasmine oil, alongside materials such as oud.
  • Technical evaluation: Formulas are assessed for safety, stability, and consistency so the scent performs as intended from batch to batch.
  • Refinement: Adjustments are made to balance, diffusion, and structure while staying true to the creative direction we set in-house.

Perfumery shares a common palette of ingredients. What makes a fragrance original is how those materials are composed into a complete formula.

Scent Families and the Art of Discovery

Perfumery is built around established scent families. When a fragrance feels familiar, it's often because it shares a family and a palette of classic materials, not because it shares a formula.

To make the collection easier to explore, we describe our scents by family and character: fresh and citrus, floral, woody, amber, spicy, and aquatic styles.

  • Families share DNA: Scents in the same family can overlap in notes and structure.
  • Formula creates identity: Balance, architecture, and dry-down are what make a fragrance original.
  • Extrait concentration changes the experience: Our fragrances are 25% concentration, designed for depth and longevity.

That's why we built discovery into the brand: to help you find what suits you by wearing it, not guessing.

What We Do, and What We Don't

Saltworks is built around original composition and full creative control. These are the standards we hold across the entire collection.

We do:

  • Create original compositions from scratch, without reference to existing fragrances
  • Formulate for structure, longevity, and clarity—not just top notes
  • Invest in materials that perform well and age gracefully
  • Iterate until it's right, even if that means starting over

We don't:

  • Make 1:1 copies or 'inspired by' versions of other perfumes
  • Start from comparisons to existing fragrances in the brief
  • Sell white-label perfumes with our branding applied
  • Optimise for shortcuts that compromise the final result

Frequently asked questions

A few straight answers about formulation, materials, and performance.

  • All Saltworks fragrances are Extrait de Parfum at 25% concentration. We work at this level for depth, richness, and a dry-down that develops on skin over time.

  • Extrait concentration usually lasts longer than lighter formats, especially when you compare the same note on the same skin (for example, bergamot in Extrait vs bergamot in EDT). But longevity also depends on the materials themselves: volatile notes like citrus fade faster, while woods, resins, amber and oud naturally stay longer, regardless of concentration.

  • Skin chemistry, hydration, body temperature, and environment all affect how materials bloom and how quickly they evaporate. That’s why we’re discovery-first: the best test is wearing a scent for a full day, not judging it on a blotter.

  • Most fine fragrance is a blend of naturals and synthetics. We use naturals where they add beauty and complexity, and we use synthetics where they improve stability, safety, or performance, while staying true to the intended character of the scent.

  • Not automatically. Some natural materials contain allergens or can be more reactive on skin. Safety depends on the specific ingredient and its level in the finished formula, not whether it is “natural” or “synthetic”.

  • Some naturals can be more allergenic, unstable, or restricted at certain levels. When a material creates avoidable risk, we may use a safe alternative that preserves the feeling of the scent while improving consistency, stability, and wearability.

  • Yes. We formulate with safety and stability in mind and work with specialist partners in Grasse, France within UK/EU cosmetics compliance standards, which require robust safety assessment for products placed on the market. The EU also bans animal testing for cosmetics and restricts the sale of animal-tested cosmetics, and the UK has long banned animal testing for cosmetics for consumer safety.

  • If you’re sensitive to fragrance, patch testing is the safest approach. Try one spray on fabric first, then a small amount on skin, and avoid applying to irritated skin. If you know specific ingredients you react to, check the ingredient information before use.

    Reactions can happen because perfumery uses powerful aromatic materials, including some natural ingredients that naturally contain potential allergens. Sensitivity is individual and can vary by person, skin condition, and dose.

    If you do experience an allergic reaction, contact our customer care team. We’ll arrange a return and issue a refund.

  • Perfumery is built around scent families (fresh, floral, woody, amber, spicy and more) that share a common palette of materials. Familiarity often comes from category DNA, not shared formulas. What makes a fragrance original is the structure, balance, and dry-down on skin.

  • No. Saltworks creates original compositions formulated in-house. We do not produce clones, 1:1 copies, or “equivalents” designed to mimic specific perfumes. While we utilize the same high-grade raw materials found in historical fine fragrance, which may create a sense of familiarity, our formulas are proprietary and entirely our own. We do not produce clones or "equivalents" of other brands.